Category:

Gardening

2025 Seed Picks

by PreserveBakeCultivate March 2, 2025

written by PreserveBakeCultivate

Last year my goal was to use up the rest of all my hybrid seeds to make room for open pollinated/heirloom seeds. Moving forward, I want to be able seed save as much as possible. So for this year, I had to purchase quite a bit of seed. I still have a few packets from previous years, but the majority come from Berlin Seeds.

At the end of the 2024 I found a local seed company about 20ish minutes from the homestead. I went and got some overwinter seeds and they were great. They have lots of organic options along with super affordable pricing. They also have everything in one place. So this year I purchased all my seed and ordered my potatoes, sweet potatoes and live plants. Unfortunately, they do not have online ordering yet but you can request a catalogue and order that way or call and order over the phone.

Vegetable varieties

Arugula

Artichoke

Bean

Provider (Fresh) ** Open Pollinated, Grows really well in my region. Continues to produce a lot when weather gets cooler in the fall.

Jade

Royal Burgandy

Broccoli

De Cicco

Waltham 29

Brussels Sprouts

Long Island Improved

Cabbage

Copenhagen Market

Late Flat Dutch

Red Acre

Red Express

Carrots

Cauliflower:

Celery

Chard

Bright Lights** Open Pollinated. Grows really big tasty leaves.

Collards

Cash Crop

Corn

Dauman: An open-pollinated, super sweet corn that is perfect for the home gardener.

Golden Bantam 8 row

Cucumbers

Cool Customer

Diva

Lemon** My favorite cucumber. Tastes so good on fresh salads.

Eggplant

Garlic

Premium Northern White

Kale

Leek

Large American Flag- New 2025

Lettuce

We eat a lot of lettuce year round. I got several different varieties this year to hopefully be able to grow in all seasons.

Buttercrunch- Butterhead

Little Gems- Romaine

Paris Island – Romaine

Rouge d’Hiver- Romaine

Winter Density- Romaine

Gourmet Lettuce Blend

Muskmelon

Hearts Of Gold

Honey Rock

Okra

Clemson Spineless

Onion

Onions are the only plant I bought hybrid. I couldn’t find storage varieties that were heirlooms.

Patterson- Storage yellow

Red Wing- Storage Red

Super Star- Fresh White

Walla Walla- Fresh Yellow

Evergreen White- Bunching

Peas

Bolero- Shelling

Lincoln- Shelling

Super Sugar Snap- Snap

Mammoth Melting Sugar- Snow

Pepper

Jalapeno- Hot

Poblano- Hot

California Wonder- Sweet Bell Red

Sun Haven- Hybrid yellow sweet bell.

Orange Blaze- Hybrid Orange Bell

Dragonfly- Hybrid Purple Bell

Jimmy Nardello- Sweet Italian Frying Pepper

Potatoes

Kennebec ** The best storage variety for my region. Grows well in my soil.

Georgia Jet Sweet Potato

Pumpkin

Atlantic Giant

Musquee de Provence ** Love this pumpkin. It looks like Cinderella’s Carriage and tastes really good when roasted.

New England Pie

Radishes

Cherry Belle

French Breakfast

China Rose- Red Daikon

White Icicle- White Daikon

Spinach

Bloomsdale

Space

Summer Squash

Zucchini Black- Green

Zucchini Romanesco- Green with white stripes

Early Prolific Straightneck- Yellow summer squash

YStar– Patty pan squash

Tomatillo

Toma Verde

Tomato

Amish Paste

San Marzano- Paste

Brandywine- Beefsteak

Big Beef Plus

Super sweet 100

Turnips

Hakurei

Purple Top White Globe

Watermelon

All Sweet

Crimson Sweet

Winter Squash

Herbs

Basil

Borage

Burdock

Catnip

Chamomile

Chives

Cilantro

Comfrey

Cumin

Echinacea

Feverfew

Hyssop

Lemon Balm

Lemon Grass

Oregano

Parsley

Pennyroyal

Rosemary

Sage

Savory

St Johns Wort

Stevia

Thyme

Valerian

Flowers

Amaranth

Alyssum

Aster

Bells of Ireland

Calendula

Carnation

Cosmos

Dahlia

Delphinium

Evening Primrose

Foxglove

Hollyhock

Lavender

Marigolds

Moonflower

Nasturtium

Poppy

Sunflower

Strawflowers

Yarrow

Zinnia

Native bee and butterfly mix

Native wildflower perennial mix

March 2, 2025 0 comments

Gardening

Exploring the World of Tomato Varieties For The Homestead Garden

by PreserveBakeCultivate March 2, 2025

written by PreserveBakeCultivate

Tomatoes are a staple in gardens worldwide, offering a spectrum of flavors, colors, and textures. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a newbie enthusiast, navigating the plethora of tomato varieties can be overwhelming. Let’s dive into the world of tomatoes, exploring different types, from paste to slicer to cherry, and uncovering tips on cultivation and companion planting.

Heirloom vs. Hybrid Tomatoes and Seed Saving

Heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated varieties that have been passed down through generations, maintaining their unique traits and flavors. In contrast, hybrid tomatoes are the result of crossbreeding different varieties to produce specific characteristics, such as disease resistance or uniformity. While hybrid tomatoes offer certain advantages, many gardeners cherish heirloom varieties for their diversity and history. Seed saving allows gardeners to preserve and share their favorite tomato varieties, ensuring a bountiful harvest year after year.

Indeterminate vs. Determinate Tomatoes

Understanding the distinction between indeterminate and determinate tomatoes is essential for successful cultivation. These terms refer to the growth habits and fruiting patterns of tomato plants.

1. Indeterminate Tomatoes:

Indeterminate tomato plants continue to grow and produce fruit throughout the growing season until they are killed by frost.
These plants have a vining growth habit, often reaching considerable heights and requiring sturdy support structures such as trellises or cages.
Indeterminate varieties produce fruit clusters along the main stem and side shoots, ensuring a prolonged harvest period.
Gardeners can prune indeterminate tomatoes to manage their size and encourage airflow, which helps reduce the risk of disease.

2. Determinate Tomatoes:

Determinate tomato plants have a more compact growth habit and reach a predetermined height before ceasing to grow.
These plants typically produce a single flush of fruit over a relatively short period, making them ideal for gardeners seeking a concentrated harvest for canning or preserving.
Determinate varieties are well-suited for container gardening or small spaces due to their compact size.
Unlike indeterminate tomatoes, determinate varieties do not require extensive pruning to manage their growth.

Choosing between indeterminate and determinate tomatoes depends on factors such as garden space, desired harvest window, and culinary preferences. Indeterminate varieties offer a continuous supply of fresh fruit throughout the season, while determinate varieties provide a concentrated harvest for preserving or enjoying in a shorter timeframe. By understanding the growth habits of each type, gardeners can select the perfect tomatoes for their needs and enjoy a bountiful harvest.

Companion Plants for Tomatoes

Companion planting can enhance the health and productivity of tomato plants. Some excellent companions for tomatoes include basil, which repels pests and enhances flavor, marigolds, which deter nematodes and attract beneficial insects, and onions, which help repel aphids and other pests. Check out more companion plants here.

Paste Tomatoes

A paste tomato is a specific type of tomato cultivar known for its meaty texture, low moisture content, and high concentration of solids. These tomatoes typically have fewer seeds and a thicker flesh compared to other varieties, making them ideal for processing into sauces, pastes, and purees. Paste tomatoes are valued for their ability to cook down into thick, flavorful sauces without becoming overly watery. Their elongated shape and robust flavor make them a staple ingredient in many culinary dishes, particularly in Italian cuisine. Whether simmered into a rich marinara sauce or diced into a fresh salsa, paste tomatoes add depth and intensity to a wide range of recipes.

My Top Varieties:

1. Amish Paste: This heirloom variety delights with its juicy, meaty interior and few seeds. Amish Paste tomatoes are perfect for slicing into salads or simmering into sauces, offering a sweet, tangy flavor.

2. Roma: With its firm, dense flesh and low moisture content, Roma tomatoes excel in sauces, salsas, and pastes. Their oblong shape and robust flavor make them a top choice for culinary creations.

3. San Marzano: Renowned for its firm flesh and rich flavor, San Marzano tomatoes are a favorite for sauces and canning. Their elongated shape and meaty texture make them ideal for cooking down into thick, flavorful pastes.

Slicer Tomatoes

A slicer tomato is a type of tomato cultivar specifically bred for its large size, juicy flesh, and optimal texture when sliced. These tomatoes are characterized by their beefy, round shape and are typically larger than cherry or grape tomatoes. Slicer tomatoes come in a variety of colors, including red, pink, yellow, and even purple, offering a visually appealing addition to salads, sandwiches, and other culinary creations. Known for their mild, sweet flavor and versatility, slicer tomatoes are perfect for slicing thickly onto sandwiches, layering in burgers, or adding to fresh salads. Whether enjoyed fresh from the garden or incorporated into a variety of dishes, slicer tomatoes are a staple ingredient in kitchens around the world.

1. Beefsteak: Known for their large size and juicy, meaty flesh, Beefsteak tomatoes are perfect for slicing onto sandwiches or enjoying fresh with a sprinkle of salt. Their mild, sweet flavor and vibrant red hue make them a garden favorite.

2. Brandywine: This heirloom variety boasts a unique, rich flavor profile and large, beefy fruits. Brandywine tomatoes come in various colors, including pink, red, and yellow, adding visual interest to any dish.

3. Cherokee Purple: With its dusky, purplish hue and complex, smoky flavor, Cherokee Purple tomatoes offer a gourmet twist to salads and sandwiches. These heirloom beauties are cherished for their unique appearance and robust taste.

4. Blush OG: A modern hybrid, Blush OG tomatoes combine the sweetness of cherry tomatoes with the size and texture of slicers. Their blush-pink hue and sweet, tangy flavor make them a versatile addition to salads and appetizers.

Cherry Tomatoes

A cherry tomato is a small-sized tomato cultivar known for its petite, round shape and sweet flavor. These tomatoes typically measure about the size of a cherry, hence the name, and come in a variety of colors, including red, yellow, orange, and even black. Cherry tomatoes are prized for their juicy texture and burst of sweetness, making them a popular choice for snacking, salads, and appetizers. They are also versatile in cooking, adding vibrant color and flavor to dishes such as pasta, pizzas, and kebabs. With their prolific nature and irresistible taste, cherry tomatoes are a favorite among gardeners and food enthusiasts alike, bringing a pop of flavor to every bite.

1. Red Cherry: Bursting with sweetness and vibrant red color, Red Cherry tomatoes are perfect for snacking straight from the vine or adding a pop of flavor to salads and pasta dishes. Their prolific nature makes them a joy to grow.

2. Super Sweet 100: As the name suggests, these cherry tomatoes are incredibly sweet and prolific, producing clusters of small, red fruits throughout the season. Super Sweet 100 tomatoes are perfect for fresh eating or skewering onto kabobs.

3. Black Cherry: Indulge in the rich, complex flavor of Black Cherry tomatoes, which offer a delightful blend of sweetness and earthiness. Their deep, mahogany color adds depth to salads and appetizers.

Cultivation Tips

Fertilizer: Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so ensure they receive sufficient nutrients throughout the growing season. Organic fertilizers high in phosphorus promote strong root development and fruit production.
Pruning: Regular pruning helps improve airflow and reduce disease pressure. Remove suckers and lower leaves to encourage upward growth and prevent overcrowding.
Trellising: Sturdy trellises or cages support tomato plants and keep fruits off the ground, reducing the risk of disease and pest damage. Train vines as they grow to maintain a tidy, manageable structure.

Whether you’re drawn to the classic allure of Roma tomatoes or the sweet indulgence of cherry varieties, there’s a tomato for every palate and garden space. Experiment with different types, savoring the unique flavors and textures each variety has to offer. Happy gardening!

March 2, 2025 0 comments

Beginner Gardening

Seed Starting 101: How to Start Seeds Indoors for a Thriving Spring Garden

by PreserveBakeCultivate March 1, 2025

written by PreserveBakeCultivate

For most if not all gardeners, starting seeds indoors is a key step in maximizing your growing season and giving your plants the best start. The longer growing season allows you to grow a wider variety of crops and gives your seedlings the time they need to establish strong roots before they’re transplanted outdoors. But seed starting is more than just a practical task—it’s the first spell of the growing season, a magical moment when your garden begins to take shape. Whether you’re eager to try new varieties or simply want stronger, healthier plants, starting seeds indoors sets the stage for a bountiful harvest.

Seed Starting Essentials

When starting seeds, you’ll need a few key supplies to ensure strong, healthy seedlings. Here are some options for each category, ranging from free and budget-friendly to more expensive choices.

1. Containers & Trays

Free: Reused yogurt cups, egg cartons, or paper towel rolls cut into sections
Budget: Plastic seed trays with individual cells
Expensive: Heavy-duty reusable seed-starting trays or soil blocker tools

2. Growing Medium

Free: Homemade compost or sifted garden soil (may need sterilization)
Budget: Basic seed-starting mix from a garden store
Expensive: Organic, high-quality seed-starting mix or DIY custom-blended soil

3. Light Source

Free: A sunny south-facing window (may result in leggy seedlings)
Budget: Basic shop lights or clamp lights with daylight LED bulbs
Expensive: Full-spectrum LED grow lights with adjustable height and timers

4. Watering System

Free: A repurposed spray bottle or a gentle drizzle from a cup
Budget: Small watering cans with a fine spout
Expensive: Self-watering seed trays or capillary mat systems

5. Heat Source (for Warm Germination Crops like Peppers & Tomatoes)

Free: A warm spot near a heating vent or on top of a fridge
Budget: Basic seedling heat mats
Expensive: Temperature-controlled heat mats or greenhouse-style warming setups

6. Labels & Organization

Free: Popsicle sticks, cut-up yogurt lids, or masking tape with marker labels
Budget: Plastic or wooden plant labels
Expensive: Reusable metal or engraved plant tags

7. Fertilizer

Free: Diluted compost tea or aged manure tea made from home compost
Budget: Liquid fish emulsion or seaweed-based fertilizer
Expensive: Organic, slow-release seedling fertilizers or specialized nutrient blends

Starting seeds can be as budget-friendly or high-tech as you choose, but with the right setup, you’ll be on your way to a thriving garden!

How to determine when to start planting

Your growing season will vary by region, but in Zone 6a, the average frost-free period lasts from May to October. Where I live, we have roughly 140 days for a growing season. While this provides ample time for many crops, warm-season vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants need a longer growing period to reach full maturity. Since our last frost date can be as late as the end of May, starting seeds indoors in late winter or early spring gives these plants a strong head start, ensuring they’re ready to thrive once transplanted outdoors. Without indoor seed starting, many heat-loving crops wouldn’t have enough time to produce a full, abundant harvest before fall frosts return.

To determine when to plant specific seeds based on your frost dates, follow these steps:

1. Find Your Frost Dates. You can find these online. I use the farmers almanac.

Last Spring Frost (Zone 6a, Ohio): ~May 15
First Fall Frost (Zone 6a, Ohio): ~October 4

2. Check Seed Packet Recommendations

Most seed packets list when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant or direct sow based on frost dates.
Look for phrases like “Start indoors X weeks before last frost” or “Direct sow after last frost.”

3. Count Backward or Forward

If a packet says to start seeds 6-8 weeks before the last frost, count back from May 15.
- Example: Tomatoes (6-8 weeks) → Start indoors around March 15 – April 1.
If a crop is cold-hardy, it can be sown before the last frost.
- Example: Peas (4-6 weeks before) → Direct sow around April 1 – April 15.
Heat-loving crops should be transplanted 2+ weeks after the last frost when soil is warm.
- Example: Peppers → Transplant late May to early June.

4. Consider Fall Planting

For a fall garden, check the days to maturity on the packet and count backward from your first frost (~October 4), adding a couple of weeks for slower fall growth.
- Example: Carrots (70 days) → Direct sow by late July.

When selecting seed varieties for your vegetable garden, consider your local climate, growing season length, and specific gardening goals. If you have a shorter growing season, like in northern climates or areas with early frosts, choose fast-maturing varieties to ensure a successful harvest before cold weather sets in. Look for descriptions that mention “early,” “short season,” or specific maturity dates that fit within your frost-free window. Additionally, consider disease-resistant varieties, heirlooms for unique flavors, or hybrid options for reliability. If space is limited, choose bush or dwarf varieties, or take advantage of vertical growing by selecting vining crops like pole beans, cucumbers, and indeterminate tomatoes that can be trained up trellises. Growing vertically not only saves space but also improves air circulation and makes harvesting easier. Selecting the right seeds tailored to your conditions will lead to a more productive and rewarding garden.

Step-by-Step Guide to Starting Seedlings

Growing your own seedlings is a rewarding way to get a head start on your garden. Follow these steps to ensure strong, healthy plants ready for transplanting.

Step 1: Gather Your Supplies

Before starting, make sure you have:

Seed trays, pots, or containers with drainage holes
Seed-starting mix (light and well-draining)
Seeds suited for your growing season
Labels for identifying seedlings
A watering system (spray bottle, watering can, or self-watering trays)
Grow lights or a sunny window
Heat mat (optional, for warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers)
Fertilizer for later growth

Step 2: Prepare the Containers

If using recycled containers, clean them thoroughly to prevent disease.
Fill each container with pre-moistened seed-starting mix, leaving about ½ inch of space at the top.

Step 3: Plant the Seeds

Check the seed packet for planting depth.
Make a small indentation in the soil and drop in 1–2 seeds per cell or container.
Lightly cover the seeds with soil and gently press down to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.

Step 4: Water Gently

Mist the soil with a spray bottle or use a watering can with a fine spout to avoid disturbing the seeds.
Keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy to prevent damping off (a fungal disease that kills seedlings).

Step 5: Provide Heat & Light

Place the trays in a warm area (65–75°F). A heat mat can help speed up germination for heat-loving crops.
Once the seeds sprout, move them under grow lights or into a bright window.
Keep lights about 2–4 inches above the seedlings and run them for 12–16 hours per day.

Step 6: Maintain & Monitor Growth

Keep the soil moist but avoid overwatering.
Thin out weaker seedlings by snipping them at the soil level, leaving the strongest one per cell.
Once seedlings develop their first true leaves, begin feeding them with a diluted organic fertilizer.

Step 7: Harden Off Before Transplanting

About 7–10 days before moving seedlings outdoors, start hardening them off.
Gradually expose them to outdoor conditions by placing them outside for a few hours each day, increasing the time daily.
Protect them from harsh sun, wind, and cold temperatures during this transition.

Following these steps will help you grow strong, healthy seedlings that are ready to thrive in your garden!

Step-by-Step Guide to Starting Seedlings

Even with the best setup, seed-starting problems can arise. Here are some common issues and how to troubleshoot them.

1. Seeds Not Germinating

Possible Causes:

Old or low-quality seeds
Soil too cold or too dry
Seeds planted too deep

How to Fix:

Use fresh, high-quality seeds and check the packet for viability information.
Maintain consistent moisture without waterlogging the soil.
Use a heat mat for warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers.
Follow recommended planting depths on seed packets.

2. Leggy Seedlings (Tall, Weak Stems)

Possible Causes:

Not enough light
Light source too far away
Overcrowding

How to Fix:

Use grow lights and keep them 2–4 inches above seedlings.
Provide 12–16 hours of light daily.
Thin seedlings to prevent overcrowding and encourage strong growth.

3. Damping Off (Seedlings Suddenly Wilting & Dying at the Base)

Possible Causes:

Overwatering or poor drainage
Contaminated soil or trays
Lack of air circulation

How to Fix:

Use sterile seed-starting mix and clean containers before planting.
Water from the bottom or use a spray bottle to keep moisture even.
Provide airflow with a small fan to prevent fungal growth.

4. Yellowing Leaves

Possible Causes:

Overwatering or underwatering
Nutrient deficiency
Poor drainage

How to Fix:

Check soil moisture levels and adjust watering as needed.
After seedlings develop true leaves, feed them with a diluted organic fertilizer.
Ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

5. Mold or Algae on Soil Surface

Possible Causes:

Excess moisture
Poor air circulation
Overuse of organic matter

How to Fix:

Allow the top layer of soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Increase airflow with a small fan.
Sprinkle a thin layer of dry sand or cinnamon on the soil surface to prevent mold growth.

6. Stunted Growth

Possible Causes:

Lack of nutrients
Root-bound seedlings in small containers
Cold temperatures

How to Fix:

Feed seedlings with a weak liquid fertilizer once they develop true leaves.
Transplant to larger containers if roots are circling the bottom.
Keep seedlings in a warm environment, especially heat-loving crops.

By addressing these common seed-starting problems early, you’ll give your plants the best start for a successful growing season!

Caring for Young Seedlings

Once your seeds have sprouted and are growing strong, providing the right care is essential for healthy, robust plants. Here’s how to care for young seedlings from thinning to transplanting

1. When & How to Thin Seedlings

Why Thin?

Thinning ensures that each seedling has enough space to grow and prevents overcrowding, which can lead to weak, leggy plants.

When to Thin:

Thin seedlings once they have developed their first set of true leaves, which are the second set of leaves to appear after the initial seed leaves (cotyledons).
If seedlings are too crowded, thin them early to reduce competition for light, water, and nutrients.

How to Thin:

Use small scissors or snips to cut weaker seedlings at the soil level. Avoid pulling them out, as this can disturb the roots of the remaining plants.
Leave the strongest and healthiest seedling in each container or cell.
Space them according to the guidelines on the seed packet to give them room to grow properly.

2. Hardening Off: Preparing Plants for Outdoor Life

What is Hardening Off?

Hardening off is the gradual process of acclimating seedlings to outdoor conditions, helping them avoid shock when they are transplanted into the garden.

When to Start Hardening Off:

Begin hardening off about 7–10 days before you plan to transplant seedlings outdoors.
Start when daytime temperatures are consistently above 50°F (10°C).

How to Hardening Off:

Start by placing seedlings in a sheltered outdoor location, like a shady spot on your porch, for a few hours in the morning.
Gradually increase the amount of time they spend outside, and slowly introduce them to direct sunlight.
Over the course of several days, expose them to more wind and sunlight, while ensuring they are protected from extreme temperatures and harsh weather.
At night, bring them inside or place them in a protected area to avoid cold drafts.
#### **3. Transplanting Tips for Strong Root Development**
**When to Transplant:**
Transplant seedlings when they have developed strong stems and several sets of true leaves.
Make sure the danger of frost has passed in your area, and daytime temperatures are consistently warm enough for the plants to thrive.

How to Transplant:

Prepare your garden soil by loosening it and mixing in compost or other organic matter to improve texture and fertility.
Dig holes that are large enough to accommodate the root ball of your seedlings, with room for their roots to spread.
Gently remove the seedlings from their containers, taking care not to damage the roots. If seedlings are root-bound (with roots circling around the container), gently loosen the roots with your fingers.
Place the seedlings in the prepared holes at the same depth they were in the seed tray, and fill in with soil, pressing lightly around the base to eliminate air pockets.
Water thoroughly after transplanting to help settle the soil around the roots.

Additional Tips for Root Development:

When transplanting, avoid burying stems too deep, as this can cause rot.
Water seedlings regularly, especially in the first few weeks, but avoid overwatering.
Apply mulch around the base of the seedlings to retain moisture and keep the soil temperature stable.

By following these steps, you’ll ensure that your young seedlings transition smoothly into outdoor life and develop strong, healthy roots that support robust growth throughout the season.

Conclusion

Starting your own seeds is a rewarding and empowering way to take control of your garden’s growth. By following the steps for seed starting, caring for young seedlings, and properly transplanting them, you’ll set yourself up for a successful season full of fresh, homegrown produce. Plus, experimenting with new varieties can be a fun way to discover unique flavors and plants that suit your gardening style.

What’s the first seed you’re starting this season? I’d love to hear about your plans and what new varieties you’re excited to try.

If you’re looking for more gardening tips and inspiration, be sure to sign up for the newsletter, follow along on social media, or check out more related posts on the blog. Happy gardening, and here’s to a bountiful growing season ahead!

March 1, 2025 0 comments

Gardening

Seasonal Garden Maintenance: Your Month-by-Month Checklist

by PreserveBakeCultivate February 28, 2025

written by PreserveBakeCultivate

I like to be able to see a simple basic overview of my month to month to help plan. Planting dates are based on zone 6A. Spring planting dates should be adjusted about a week earlier for Zone 6B and a week after for Zone 5b.

Most vegetables can be planted July-September for a fall harvest. Just be sure to check the number of growing days needed. Days to maturity does not factor in the germination time, so make sure to add that to your days to maturity to make sure you get your fall crop.

Spring planted vegetables should be started indoors 4 weeks before last frost date or date stated below.

Remember that these dates are general guidelines and can vary based on local climate conditions and the specific microclimate of your garden. It’s a good idea to consult your local extension services for more precise planting recommendations.

February 28, 2025 0 comments